Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Style Week North East: F/W 2014 (Jan. 25)

Closing night at Style Week is always exciting! There are tons of people and some of the areas best designers show. On Saturday night, I saw the F/W 2014 collections from Selahdor by David Chum as well as Jonathan Joseph Peters. I was adamantly looking forward to hearing the designers' perspective of their collections, and their answers did not disappoint.

I absolutely loved the modern, minimal, athletic elements of David Chum's collection. His collection was consistently on trend, from the neoprene to the mesh to the mirrored prints. (Plus I loved seeing my brother on the runway!)
What do you personally want to see come back in style?
Bell bottoms! Flares! There's too pairs in this collection. Both have quilting detail taut is meant to look like snakeskin. I'm so tired of the skinny fit. It does not look good on all women. Bell bottoms are so much more flattering. They slim the hips and thighs, are super feminine, and elongate your legs.
What are you most proud of in this collection? (Be it anything from one garment to a choice in fabric)
It's pretty cliche, but I'd have to say the finale piece. The bodice is made from silk crepe ribbons which I cut and sewed myself. These were then arranged into a pattern and attached to the corset using a couture technique called passimenterie. I also made every part of the corset, including the bra cups. The whole process was new for me and was pretty intense. It's far from perfect, but I'm really happy with how it came out.
What was your primary inspiration for this collection?
I've been working on "AURYN", a trio of collections based on characters and elements from the popular 1980's children's fantasy film and German novel "The Neverending Story". Autumn/Winter 2014 is the final collection and was inspired by the Childlike Empress, as well as Falcor (the luck dragon), the Ivory Tower (the empress's home), the Magnolia Pavilion (her throne room), and AURYN (an amulet of 2 intertwining snakes, also a symbol of the empress). This collection ended up being split between Spring/Summer 2014 and Autumn/Winter 2014. There was too much I wanted to do, and I wanted one lighter and one darker interpretation of the same girl.
When did designing come into your life? Could you always see yourself doing it or did you find yourself on the path to a different career before fashion design?
It's always been there in some way, shape, or form since I was a child. I actually went to school for fine arts, but incorporated hand-made costumes into my work. I'm completely self-taught as a designer and made the transition about 5 years ago. I was showing at galleries in Italy, New York, etc. and I just got really bored and frustrated with the art world. I'm not surprised this is what I'm doing. I've always been very creative. I've always loved clothes. I love the challenge of finding the balance between commerce and creativity when I work. And it's been a challenge navigating this world. I really didn't know what I was doing, I still don't. If you look back at all my collections you can see me searching for my DNA, my point of view. The entire time I've been working at my craft and learning more and more. I think the newer collections reflect this. And I hope the audience has enjoyed the process as much as I have.
As far as Jonathan Joseph Peters' collection, I love it for an almost opposite reason. The obvious mid-20th century influences, the eye-catching and avant garde use of cut and patterns really grabbed my attention.
What was your primary inspiration for this collection?
I was inspired by a group of women who are fashion icons. Iris Apfel, Diana Vreeland, Carmen D'ell Orifice, Marilyn Riseman, and Isabella Blow. These are women who truly can create, destroy, celebrate and dictate where fashion and trends go. Bold, humorous, smart, and witty women who understand the importance of being different and individualistic.
What would you say is the hardest part about putting together a collection?
Balance for me. When you're creating bold pieces with bold styling, and bold music it is important to stay focused and keep the overall effect accessible. I always fear making clown clothes.
What do you personally want to see come back in style?
Turbans and Caftans!
When did designing come into your life? Could you always see yourself doing it or did you find yourself on the path to a different career before fashion design?
I remember being ten years old and telling people I was going to design clothes. People would sometimes be surprised and say things like "but you're such a good student". That always confused me. Design takes so many verbal, spatial, and mathematical skills. It also takes extreme passion!

(More posts about Style Week here)
outfit photos: Brittanny Taylor, runway photos: Myke Yeager | Chictopia | Twitter | Instagram | Facebook